VPD Calculator

VPD takes two variables, temperature and relative humidity (RH), and puts them into an equation. For the purposes of this article, we will refer you to a VPD calculator. Here is a very simple one that is easy to use: https://www.doctorgreenhouse.com/cannabis-vpd-calculator

This calculator allows you to input your temperature and humidity into the corresponding boxes to calculate your VPD. There is also a chart that goes along with your VPD number. The key to the chart is, keep it in the GREEN! Take your corresponding temperature and humidity, follow each until they intersect and that tells you your VPD (this is if you don’t want to use the VPD calculator) if you already have your VPD from the calculator, find where your number lands on the chart. If it’s in the green, you are good to go!

Understanding VPD

You can think of VPD as a way to increase or decrease the movement of the water inside the plant. A lower VPD will move the water inside the plant slower, and a higher VPD will result in the water moving faster. This is important because when the plant is young, it can’t move water very fast through its vascular system, as it hasn’t developed yet. So, a lower VPD at the younger stages is going to result in optimum growth at that stage. As the plant gets older and larger, it will be able to take a higher VPD.

A general rule of thumb when it comes to VPD is:

Seedling/Early veg 0.4-0.8 is ideal

Veg/Early Flower 0.8-1.1

Flower 1.1-1.3

If VPD is not something you have ever thought to use in your garden, we highly recommend it. We do understand it can be challenging to achieve the perfect environment, but this at least gives us a goal to shoot for. As always, check us out our cannabis seed bank online, and follow us on our Facebook, Reddit, Discord, and Instagram!

I will start by saying, a true hermaphrodite is rare. There are things that can cause a female plant to go into what is called rodelization. Rodelization takes place when a female plant will try to pollinate herself as a last resort when she doesn’t get pollinated and is nearing the end of her life cycle. That is why sometimes older or stressed female plants grow a few male “balls” as a last-ditch attempt to self-pollinate.

In autoflowers, this process can happen early at the beginning of flowering. It DOES NOT mean that your plant is a hermaphrodite! This is a natural response to some sort of stress trigger, which can be anything from:

• Temperature swings
• Humidity issues
• Watering issues
• Lighting issues, etc.

We have not identified what exactly causes this rodelization response. What we do know is that it is generally not a cause for concern.

Next we will identify how to tell if your plant is has “stress sacs” or is a true hermie.

Stress Sacs

Generally, rodelization stress sacs only occur at the bottom most branches. They usually only occur on the first 1-3 internodes (the place where the lateral branch meets the main stalk). There will almost always be just a few of them in a small cluster that forms at the base of the internode. They almost always are small and easy to spot.

This is an example of a stress sac, as long as it is at the lower most part of the plant.

True Hermies

A true hermaphrodite is going to have both male and female parts forming all the way up the plant. They will form tight male sac clusters where buds should be. They generally will have both male and female parts in the same bud site. This is not always the case, but most of the time. On a true hermie, you will notice a lot more male flowers in the place where pistils (the hairs on female plants) are supposed to be.

This is an example of a true hermie.

If you do in fact have stress sacs vs a true hermie, the easiest way to deal with them is to pluck off the stress sacs that you can see. Then, keep a close eye on the plant, and watch for any further sacs to develop. In most cases, they will only throw out one, MAYBE two sets of sacs at the bottom-most branches. Stress sacs are not super rare and can happen from time to time. True hermies, however, are much more rare, and that is why it is always key to stick with reputable breeders and reputable retailers, like Multiverse Beans!

Optimal Environment for Germinating Autoflower Seeds

When it comes to germinating autoflower seeds, it is important to keep in mind the optimum environment in which seedlings will germinate and thrive. This is going to be a temperature range of 78-85 Fahrenheit and a relative humidity (RH) range of 85-95%. We recommend using a seedling germination kit that has a dome, along with root cubes (brand doesn’t really matter). This is a proven method that will result in almost any seed that is viable coming to life.

Preparing the Root Plugs

Take your root plugs and insert them into the root plug tray. At this point, you want to insert your seed into the pre-drilled hole in the root plug.

CAUTION – DON’T PUT IT TOO DEEP! This is a common issue we see. Burying the seed deep in the middle of the root plug is not the correct way. What happens when the seed is buried too deeply is the tap root can grow in the wrong direction. This mistake can result in all kinds of weird things, such as your seedling trying to come out the bottom or the side of the cube. You want to place the seed no more than 1⁄4 of an inch into the root plug. Basically, just enough to make sure that the seed can absorb moisture from all around. You want the entire seed covered by the root plug and that’s it.

Maintaining the Right Temperature and Humidity

Make sure that your incubator kit is in a warm place – not hot and definitely not cold or even cool. Temperatures are one of the most important things to think about when it comes to germination. To achieve this warmth, some people will use a heat mat. Now that your seed is into the root cube, simply place the clear plastic dome on top of the root plug holder and reservoir trays. This will create a very humid environment, which is the optimum for autoflower seeds. The vents on the plastic dome will allow you to control the ambient relative humidity inside the incubator. In most cases, having them all shut will keep the inside at the perfect RH.

Setting Up the Light

Now you want to hook up your light! For most situations, simply put a T5 light fixture on top of the plastic dome. Again, these lights are not very powerful, but they don’t need to be. The primary reason to have a light source is to minimize “stretching” early on. Having almost any source of light will achieve this. So don’t get too bogged down in searching for a special seedling light.

Next is the part that MANY people have trouble with: LEAVE IT ALONE. Do not pull the plugs out to check on the seeds no matter how curious you are. They are doing their thing; don’t stress! Don’t mess with the mat, the dome, or the plugs. Just leave it alone for 72 hours, and 95% of the time you will have seedlings ready to transplant.

Transplanting Seedlings

Once your seedlings start to emerge, you will notice what we call a “goose neck” starting to push its way through the pre-drilled opening. This is the part of the root crown that attaches plant to root system. It is at this point that we recommend transplanting into their “forever home.”

Because of the delicate nature of the tap root and root cap, transplanting at this point will help ensure the stability of the root system. One of the major things that we have found in achieving the best results with autos is proper care of the root system at the beginning stages of growth. By transplanting when the “goose neck” is starting to show, the tap root in most cases is still inside the root plug. This will significantly minimize root damage risk. Generally speaking, if these steps are followed, you will have a seedling in 72 hours or less. Some cultivars will take less time, some can take a little more. With this method of germination, we have achieved a 98% success rate in germinating our autoflower seeds.

Big thanks to @804grower for letting us use your seedling photo!

Traditional Indicators of Maturity

For as long as harvesting has been around, people have used the color of the trichome as the sole indicator of maturity for the cannabis plant. Traditionally, it has been thought that the trichome goes through three stages of development:

• Clear Trichome Head – This is a fully bulbous head that has not begun to become opaque, here is a picture of a clear trichome head. You will notice that the head is still totally translucent, and hasn’t started to turn “milky” or opaque
• “Milky” or Opaque Trichome Head – This trichome head has started to go from completely clear to a more opaque or “milky” Notice how these trichomes are starting to go milky towards the bottom, but still remain clear at the top. This is a good example of the transition from clear to milky.
• Amber Trichome Head – This is the final stage of trichome development, and it is thought that this is when it is fully mature

In our opinion, trichome color alone is NOT the best way to tell if your cannabis plant is ready to harvest. We recommend a more in depth and overall plant assessment. This is especially true for autoflowers, there are some strains that will never fully turn amber. Some will, some won’t. It’s still kind of a mystery as to what specifically changes the color of a trichome.

Determining Ripeness at Multiverse Beans

Below is the way we determine ripeness here in the multiverse:

• First: Bract size. Are the bracts fully formed and swollen? This is something that we always look for first, are the calyxes fully formed and all the way swollen. One way to determine this is by feeling the bud. Give it a gentle squeeze and see how much firmness the bud has. If it still feels “airy” or light in any way, that means it still has some swelling to do.
• Next: Pistil recession. Are 90% or more of the hairs recessed and orange? This is a sign that the plant has given up on reproducing for the most part and understands it’s going to die. Once the hairs have gone brownish or orange, that is when you really can start to think about chopping.
• Next: Leaf fade. This is when the plant is consuming its nutrient reserves in a last ditch effort to stay alive. This process is the same thing that happens when the leaves change on the trees in the mountains. When the leaves start to lose their green chlorophyll, it can turn all kinds of beautiful colors. This is another reason to make sure to let your cannabis get fully mature. The leaf color fade is always such a beautiful thing to see.
• Lastly: Look at the trichomes, but not in the way most people think. Instead of focusing solely on the color, we always recommend looking at the structure of the trichome and how the head is attached to the stalk.

Using a Microscope

Now you will need a microscope of some kind (even the cheap ones will work). You can find these on Amazon. Just search for a handheld microscope or a microscope lens for your phone or camera.

Conclusion: A Holistic Approach

While color can be a factor, newer research shows that light and other outside influences can affect the color as well as maturity. That’s why it’s not the best indicator of maturity.

Look at the trichs and see if the head has started to separate from the stalk. Once this has happened in 80% or more of the trichomes, you are ready for harvest!

Learning the Process

As with most things when it comes to growing cannabis, this process takes time to learn and is an acquired and learned skill. Very rarely in cannabis cultivation do we find a “one size fits all” method of doing anything. We are constantly evolving in what we know about this plant, and as science improves and access evolves. We will learn exactly what causes the change in color of trichomes, along with many other things. We believe this is a more complete way of answering the question, “is my plant ready to harvest?” Using the entire plant as a way to tell you when she is ready to harvest, will allow you to get more familiar with how the cannabis life cycle works.

Contact Us

If you need help determining the right time to harvest your cannabis, contact Multiverse Beans. Our team of cannabis seed experts is here to help you achieve the best buds possible.

There are a few different ways to allow light to reach the inner areas of the plant. Low stress training will help create an even canopy with buds that are more uniform in shape and size, while also reducing the amount of “larf” or less desirable material. It also gives you more control over your plants size, shape, and height.

The most common method of low stress training is tying branches down laterally. You can do this by taking some wire or string and tying it directly onto your pot. If there’s nowhere to tie it down, you can use any sort of clip to clip the string to your growing medium.

The LST Method

Below are some photos that demonstrate the LST method of tying the branches down.

Big thanks to ,@rubysautogrow & ,@eazycannabis for letting us use their photos!

LST Clips

Another common method that has become more prevalent is using the LST “clips.” Low stress training with the LST clip method involves simply bending the branches in the direction you want them to go and placing the branches into these neat little clips.

These clips can take a little getting used to, sometimes the branches can kind of “snap,” and that is definitely not what we want to accomplish when using the LST clips. What we do want to accomplish with light stress training is allow light into the lower branches of the plant. This can help provide a more even canopy, allow the lower branches to stretch, and it does not negatively affect the plants ability to grow. Amazingly, the plant will grow around the LST clips, basically adopting them as a part of its branch. If you use these clips and you feel like the branch is getting too wide for the clips, you can always remove them.

Examples

Here are a few examples of low stress training with clips.

Big thanks to ,@tombstones.trichomes & ,@the.ganjaranger for letting us use their photos!

These methods of low stress training essentially help with the same issues, and can help increase your yield while also decreasing the amount of stress you would normally run into with other methods of training. The only difference in these two methods is that one connects the pot to the plant’s branches with wire or string, and the other is located only on the branches itself and does not involve attaching your branch to the pot’s exterior.

Defoliation

In contrast to low stress training methods, another common method of training is defoliation. Defoliation is known as high stress training. Defoliation is defined plainly as removing above ground plant material. This method of high stress training often comes with many questions like “Do I do it?” “How much do I do?” “When do I do it?” It’s completely normal to ask these questions, considering if high stress training is executed improperly – then it could cause stunted, malformed, or even dead plants.

When defoliating, you want to keep in mind that the leaves are the batteries of the plant, and they are needed to carry out the photosynthesis process. We have a rule of thumb in the multiverse when it comes to defoliation: if the leaf is causing more harm than good, it should be removed. What causes more harm than good? The determining factor is whether the leaf is covering a budsite or not. If a fan leaf is covering a main budsite that is lower down the plant and it is not getting adequate light, it will cause that budsite to be underdeveloped from the rest of the budsites.

Having too much biomass or foliage can cause humidity issues that lead to bud rot, mold, and mildew. Thinning out an abundance of leaves can improve air flow to the buds and branches, while also decreasing the chances of getting a mold or mildew issue. When thinning out your biomass, keep in mind: less is more – you can always take more off but you can never put it back.

Contact Multiverse Beans

If you’re interested in learning more about how relative humidity affects your beans, check out our blog post titled “MultiverseBeans Seed Storage Guide.”

Leave a comment below and let us know how low stress training has improved your crop! You can also reach out to us with questions or comments via our online contact form. Check out our online cannabis seed bank to buy cannabis seeds online today.

Defining pH

Without getting too boring or “sciency,” let’s take a little crash course on pH. pH is the scale that determines how basic or acidic something is. This is key to growing autoflowering cannabis because if a soil is too basic or too acidic, it will not uptake nutrients properly from the soil or hydro medium you grow in.

******THIS ARTICLE IS FOR SOIL, NOT COCO OR HYDRO!******

Adjusting your pH is something that you need to stay on top of and maintain. It is not a hard thing to do – and I cannot stress this enough – it’s very important. This is especially true if you are working with “bottled” or “salt based” nutrients. For soil mediums, you want to maintain a pH between 6.5 and 6.8. That is the ideal range of which most micro and macro nutrients are absorbed into a soil medium.

Here is a chart that shows which different nutrients are absorbed at different pH levels.

Maintaining Proper pH

The following are the proper steps to take to ensure that your root zone maintains a proper pH. If you are using “bottled” or “salt based” nutrients that you will be adding on a regular basis, these steps need to be taken EVERY SINGLE TIME. There are no exceptions to this process.

1. Get a pH meter – or at a bare minimum, litmus test strips. The latter will get you within a range, a meter will get a more specific and accurate reading.

2. Test the pH of the water BEFORE watering your autoflowers. This will let you know what your water is all the time. We like to call it a baseline. If your water is way outside the range of acceptable nutrient uptake (like above 8 or below 6), you will need to test the pH of your water every time you water your plants.

3. When you add nutrients, microbes, recharge, etc. to your water, add them to your water first, THEN check the pH. This will let you know if you need to adjust your pH up or down to achieve the range from the chart above.

4. Get something to adjust the pH level of your water. There are plenty of cheap solutions on the internet when you do a quick google search. There are also many organic “around the house” type of options. For the sake of this article we will assume you have one of those methods available to you. If you have a reading of 4.8 you will need to add a small amount of pH UP, then recheck the pH, based on this reading you will again go up or down. Keep in mind that less is more with pH adjusting solutions. Adding small amounts and rechecking is the best way to avoid adding excess to your water.

5. Once you have gotten your solution of water and you added nutrients etc. to within the range of 6.5 – 6.8 let it stand for 12 hours, then recheck the mix. If the solution has drifted to outside the acceptable range repeat step 4 from above.

In Conclusion

This is a way to give your plants the best ability to get those nutrients we spend so much money on! Multiverse Beans is your one stop shop for the best beans in the galaxy! Stay tuned for our next educational article. We’d love to hear your thoughts and feedback! Follow us on Facebook and let us know some article topics you would like to see us write about.

Watering: Challenges and Solutions

That main issue is watering! Watering autos, especially at first, is by far the most important thing when it comes to getting them to grow to their full potential. With autoflowering cannabis, less is more. These plants don’t need a lot of water. In fact, they can very easily have too much water. That is the most common issue we see – overwatering! Overwatering can cause so many issues, especially with young plants.

Optimal Hydration

Let’s talk a little about how the root(s) grow and how to have optimal hydration for your autoflowering plant throughout its entire life. When the plant is young (its first few weeks of life), its roots are in a constant state of “searching.” The roots are searching for optimal nutrition and optimum hydration levels. If there is too much water present in the medium, the roots have no need to seek out that moisture. They basically drown because there isn’t enough oxygen to allow them to do their thing. The roots grow in the humid space between the very moist soil and the very dry soil, therefore giving them the proper amount of water at the beginning is essential. Unlike photoperiod cannabis, autos only have a certain amount of time to establish a large root system prior to the flowering phase of life.

Watering Your Autoflowers: Best Practices

Here is a good rough guide to get your autos to start on their best foot forward when it comes to watering.

Step 1

You always want to “water in” your new seedlings. This is basically just the process of pre-moistening your soil before placing the seed or seedling in the pot. To water in, you want to take a handful or so of soil out of the pot and make a hole. In this hole, you want to pour enough water until you get a kind of mud soup in the hole. A slurry is what you want. After the water has drained, you can place your seed or seed plug in the pot.

Note: ** If sewing your auto straight into the soil, take some of the dirt that was removed from the hole and place it back in the hole. It should suck that wet soil up through osmosis and provide a perfect place for your Multiverse Beans seed! ** This should provide enough water in and around the seedling for at least 3 days, in most cases it will be 5 days (this is dependent on your temperature and humidity).

Step 2

After the medium has gone through a “dryback” period (which means the soil has been drying out) of anywhere from 3-7 days, you can water. Again, keep in mind that less is more! I have always used a medicine cap (like the ones that come on a bottle of NyQuil or Pepto Bismol). Fill this with regular water (no nutes), and pour it in a circle about an inch away from the stem. You don’t want the area right around the stem to be too moist. Too much moisture can cause dampening off, so give an inch or two of dry soil in the center of your water ring.

This will last approximately 3 days, but again this depends on your environment. If you have a very humid environment with little airflow, it will take longer than if you have a very dry environment with high airflow.

Step 3

Once your leaves reach the outer edge of the pot, saturate the entire pot moving forward. When watering your autos, slower is better, and less is more. When you saturate your entire pot for the first time, do it slowly. The slower, the better. Remember that the soil acts like a sponge or piece of paper towel. When you water slowly, you water totally and evenly and more efficiently. Watering too fast can lead to dry pockets of soil that have become hydrophobic; this prevents root growth to those areas. You don’t want your soil too dry, and you don’t want it too moist at any stage throughout its lifetime. Finding out what is too wet or too dry is something that you will get an understanding of as time goes on and more auto grows are under your belt. It is a learning process.

Contact Multiverse

Contact us to learn more. We look forward to helping you out with all your growing needs. Don’t forget to follow us on our socials and join our Facebook Group!

Cannabis Seed Storage Considerations

Something to keep in mind about cannabis seeds, is that they are inherently hearty! They have evolved to withstand lots of different kinds of environments.

Moisture and Darkness

One thing cannabis seeds are not designed to withstand is moisture! In this article, we are going to be very redundant on a couple of things. Those things are moisture and darkness. Temperature is important, but its importance lies more along the lines of maintaining a steady temperature versus a certain temperature. The best way to store cannabis seeds is in a very dry and dark place that has a steady temperature.

Ideal Storage Methods

There are many of different methods for achieving this. Let’s go over a few of them.

Light Proof Container

Your first step is to get a light proof container. This is easy! Basically, the only thing that the container needs to be is light proof. A quick Google search for “cannabis seed storage containers” will provide plenty of options. They can range from jars, to bags, and even to a locking safe. Keep in mind that your container should be able to fit either one specific strain, or you can get a container that allows for multiple strains. When you place the seeds in a lightproof container, place some cotton swabs or cotton balls in the container, this provides a barrier layer for protection against moisture.

Relative Humidity

The next step is making sure that the moisture, or relative humidity (RH), is in the proper range. Too little humidity can cause pest issues, but too high humidity can cause your beans to rot. Here is a RH chart to explain the different relative humidity levels and how they affect cannabis seeds and cannabis seed storage.

Below 8% RH:
At these levels, any pests or insects around the seeds become active, may start reproducing, and thus damaging the seeds.
8–10% RH:
The risk of pests still exists, but it’s the optimal relative humidity (RH) for long-term storing of cannabis seeds.
12–14% RH:
Fungi flourish in these conditions, which harms the seeds and affects their ability to germinate later.
18–20% RH:
The seeds may sweat in this condition, and the moisture (and any heat) can cause them to rot.
20–30% RH:
These levels are ideal for storing cannabis seeds for short-term use.
40–60% RH:
When you increase the RH to 40–60%, seeds may start germinating. These are the optimal levels for cultivating most strains of cannabis.
70–100%
These levels are too high for storing cannabis seeds.
Within 12 hours, they’ll start drowning, wilting, and dying.

Controlling RH Levels

There are a couple of different ways to control your RH levels. You can use desiccant packets – also known as silica gel packets. These are the little bag things that come in new shoes, beef jerky, etc. You know you found one when you go to pull up a piece of jerky but instead get a packet that says DO NOT EAT. A quick google search for “seed storage desiccant packs” will provide you with plenty of options to buy them. PLEASE REMEMBER: store the packets in a sealed container with a desiccant pack that will absorb moisture, but please DO NOT PLACE THE DESICCANT PACKET DIRECTLY IN THE SEED PACKETS. For some, this is overkill. To many people, storing seeds usually isn’t a long-term process, but instead just a few months or weeks.

Freezer or Refrigerator

If storing your seeds for the short term, the easiest and most foolproof method is going to be to store them in a refrigerator or freezer. We recommend storing in a fridge instead of a freezer. Temperatures that are too low, like in the freezer, can cause the seed to thaw as it warms up to room temperature. This may lead to issues with germination. Moisture is the enemy here!

In Conclusion

For 95% of people, setting the seeds in a lightproof container in a dark drawer is plenty enough care for them to last until they are ready to be used. Sometimes, we in the “industry” can over-complicate things. Storing your seeds is one of those things that doesn’t need to be overthought. If your cannabis seeds are in a dark, dry, and stable place. They will be good for a long, long time. With that being said, storing cannabis seeds is easy. If you maintain those three things: DRY, DARK, and STABLE, your cannabis seed storage should be a breeze!

Contact Us

To learn more about cannabis seed storage, or to buy cannabis seeds online, contact Mulitverse Beans. We’re here to help you make informed decisions and grow the best buds possible.

What is CBG?

CBG is shorthand for cannabigerol. This compound is one of many that are known as cannabinoids. In general, most commercially available cannabis strains are high in THC (the psycho-active compound in cannabis) but low in all other cannabinoids, including CBG. However, some breeders have created high CBG strains, such as Royal CBG Automatic, which possesses an average of 6-8% CBG.

How Is CBG Produced?

During the flowering stage, cannabis plants produce small structures on the exterior of flowers, called trichomes. These structures play many different roles for the plant, such as pest prevention and management, moisture retention, and UV ray protection. The ability to accomplish these tasks can be attributed to the physical structure of the trichome, but is more often attributed to the cannabinoids that they produce.

At the beginning stages of cannabinoid production, the cannabinoid CBGA (cannabigerolic acid) acts as the precursor for THCA, CBDA, and CBCA, among many other cannabinoids. CBGA starts as the most abundant cannabinoid, then eventually becomes minor as it gets converted. To obtain high amounts of CBG in the final product, the grower can go down two routes; either harvest very early in the flowering stage, which will stop the CBGA conversion from happening, but will result in poor yields, or grow seeds such as seedsman CBG #1, or CBG force, which have been genetically selected to avoid the conversion of CBGA.

How Does CBG Affect The Body?

CBG is a non-psychoactive substance. This means that when used (smoked, ingested, or applied topically), it will not get you ‘high’. In most cases, the effects that come from cannabinoids are due to how they react with the endocannabinoid system. The most commonly reported use for CBG is for depression and anxiety management. As CBG reacts with the body, it has the ability to help regulate mood and stress. Another widely reported use for CBG is management/ reduction of chronic pain.

CBG Over CBD

Currently, CBG is considered to be a better option for anti-inflammatory purposes compared to CBD or THC. Those affected by glaucoma have reported a reduction in intraocular eye pressure. CBG is also a great option for fighting insomnia. Taken before bed, CBG can have a powerful relaxing effect that can help put you to sleep and keep you asleep until the morning.

Recommended Strains

Growing your own CBG can be a rewarding and cost effective way to get your daily dose. Whether you grow for medicinal purposes or for recreational use, Multiverse Beans has a few strain recommendations for you:

• CBG Force Photo – Known for large yields and a stealthy terpene profile, this strain is an all around well balanced CBD strain.
• CBG#1 – With a profile of 16.9% CBG and flavors of tangy berries and a hint of citrus, this strain is a great choice for anyone needing something that can really knock out symptoms of pain while having a great and unique taste.
• Royal CBG Automatic – This strain contains about 6-8% CBG, but has only 0.08% THC. If you’ve tried cannabis for pain relief in the past, but the high THC content caused unwanted effects, then this is the strain for you. All of the benefits with none of the drawbacks that are caused by THC.

Contact Multiverse Beans

To learn more about CBG, or to buy cannabis seeds online, contact Multiverse Beans now.

Recent Legislation

The DEA recently carried out a review of federal statute and implementing regulations in response to an inquiry from attorney Shane Pennington regarding the legality of cannabis seeds, tissue culture and “other genetic material” containing no more than 0.3 percent THC.

The agency affirmed that while it used to be the case that marijuana seeds were controlled—full stop—that’s no longer the case because of the federal legalization of hemp, as Pennington discussed in an edition of his On Drugs newsletter on Substack on Monday.

Following the enactment of the 2018 Farm Bill, hemp has been excluded from the Controlled Substances Act’s (CSA) definition of marijuana, making it so all parts of the plant Cannabis sativa L. are uncontrolled as long as they don’t exceed 0.3 percent THC.

“Accordingly, marihuana seed that has a delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol concentration of not more than 0.3 percent on a dry weight basis meets the definition of ‘hemp’ and thus is not controlled under the CSA,” Terrence L. Boos, chief of DEA”s Drug & Chemical Evaluation Section wrote in the letter, dated January 6. “Conversely, marihuana seed having a delta-9 tetrahydrocannabinol concentration more than 0.3 percent on a dry weight basis is controlled in schedule I under the CSA as marihuana.”

Because both hemp and marijuana seeds generally contain nominal THC levels that wouldn’t exceed the legal threshold, DEA is essentially conceding that people can have cannabis seeds no matter how much THC the resulting plant might produce, as long as the seeds themselves contain less than 0.3 percent delta-9 THC. Of course, it continues to be federally illegal to use any cannabis seeds with the intent of growing still-prohibited marijuana.

“In my view, the letter is significant because we continue to see confusion over the source rule—the argument that the legal status of a cannabis product hinges on whether it is ‘sourced’ from marijuana or hemp—influencing legislative proposals even at the federal level,” Pennington told Marijuana Moment.

“Now that we know that the legality of the ultimate ‘source’ of both hemp and marijuana plants (their seeds) hinges on delta-9 THC concentration alone, reliance on the source rule is much harder to defend,” Pennington said. “I’m hopeful this will clear up a lot of confusion in this area of law.”

Beyond Cannabis Seeds

The new DEA letter also clarifies that “other material that is derived or extracted from the cannabis plant such as tissue culture and any other genetic material that has a delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol concentration of not more than 0.3 percent on a dry weight basis meets the definition of “hemp” and thus is not controlled under the CSA.”

Pennington and Zorn are no strangers to DEA. The attorneys have an extensive history of litigating against the agency on cannabis and broader drug policy issues, helping to break the federal monopoly on marijuana cultivation for research purposes, for example.

Zorn is also involved in a separate challenge to DEA’s proposal to ban five psychedelic compounds. Researchers and advocates scored a procedural victory in that case in February after the agency’s own administrative court agreed to hold hearings on the matter before the prohibition can be enacted.

Meanwhile, DEA officials last year clarified to state regulators that an increasingly popular, psychoactive cannabinoid known as delta-8 THC is not a controlled substance under existing statute.

The agency officials said that only products containing more than 0.3 percent delta-9 THC—the most commonly known intoxicating cannabinoid—is controlled, but the 2018 Farm Bill that legalized hemp does not explicitly ban THC isomers.

Psilocybin

Separately, a bipartisan group of members of Congress sent a letter to DEA in January, urging the agency to let terminally ill patients have access to psilocybin. Lawmakers said DEA is “obstructing access to psilocybin for therapeutic use consistent with the letter and intent Right to Try (RTT) laws.”

Congress and 41 states have adopted right-to-try laws, which allow patients with terminal conditions to try investigational medications that have not been approved for general use. Lawmakers said that DEA “has failed to abide” by the law.

DEA has increased production quotas for the production of certain psychedelics like psilocybin in an effort to promote research, but its scheduling decisions have continued to represent obstacles for scientists—a point that’s been repeatedly echoed by the head of the National Institute on Drug Abuse.