Breeder Name Sale %

Ace Seeds 15

Atlas Seeds 15

Barneys Farm 15

BGreen Genetics 35

Binary Selections 15

Blimburn Seeds 30

Bloom Seed Co 30

Bodhi/Sproutways 15

Brothers Grimm 15

Cali Connection 15

Cannarado Genetics 15

Cult Classic 40

Dark Horse 15

Dark Owl 15

DNA 15

Dream Beans 15

Dutch Passion 15

Ebb and Flow 20

Envy Genetics 40

Error Seeds 15

Ethos 15

Exotic Genetics 15

Fast Buds 15

Fat Cat Labs 40

Fire Budz 40

Gnome Automatics 15

Hollands High 20

Humboldt Seed Co 15

Inhouse Genetics 15

Jinxproof 15

Kagyu/Sproutways 15

Magic Strains 15

Mephisto 15

Mosca 20

Night Owl 15

Organicx Genetics 20

Pacific NW Roots 35

Photon Pharms 15

Pure Breeding 20

Ripper Seeds 15

Robin Hood 10

Roc Bud Inc 15

Romulan 15

Ronin Garden 15

Royal Queen 15

Seed Stockers 15

Seedsman 20

Sensi Seeds 20

Sin City 20

Skunk House 40

Snowhigh/Sproutways 15

SoFem 15

Solfire Garden 20

Speedrun Seeds 15

Square One 10

Sweet Seeds 15

Tastebudz 15

Terp Fi3nd 15

Trident 15

Twenty20 Mendocino 15

Twisted Trees Auto Flowers 15

Viking Gardens 15

Wicked Pissah 30

Approximately 95% of the autoflower marker is made up of feminized seeds. This means that 99% of these types of seeds are going to be female when they are grown out to maturity. Regular autoflower seeds will give you a mother nature’s mix of both males and females once they are grown to maturity. In this article, we will explain the differences between regular and feminized autoflower seeds. We will also discuss the best methods for growing out these regular seeds and how to deal with both the males and females.

Common Myths about Feminized Seeds

First off, we would like to dispel some common myths about feminized seeds. There are some old and outdated thoughts about feminized seeds. Some used to say “they don’t have the same vigor” or “they aren’t as good as regular natural seeds.” We still see it from time to time, and this author can confidently say that couldn’t be further from the truth with my years of experience with cultivating cannabis. So, that said, we can move on to talking about regular autoflower seeds.

Myth Busting: Multi Potting

Another common myth that we see being talked about is that with autos you can only have one pot per plant. Again, this couldn’t be any more untrue. There is a well-known and widely used cultivation method known as “Multi Potting.” It was made known with autos by Mossy from the autoflower network. This practice seems to be more common overseas in Europe, and it still baffles us why more folks here stateside don’t utilize this method.

Multi Potting is the technique of planting multiple plants into one container. There are some things that you need to know about this method before we start. First is going to be having adequate container size. We do not recommend using this method in anything less than a 5 gallon pot (but please feel free to experiment), with 7-10 gallon pots being ideal. Having the proper container size when multi potting is key, mainly because the roots need adequate space to grow.

We suggest the following:

• For each container plant at least 4 regular autoflower seeds, spacing them apart approx. 3 inches.
• You want to make sure they are all planted on the outside edges of the pots, as this will allow the roots adequate space to grow.

As the plants grow, you will want to keep an eye on them for the first 3 weeks or so to identify males. One thing to keep in mind when trying this technique is figuring out what you are going to do with the males before you start your grow. There are really only two options. 99% of people will just kill the males at the first sign of sexing (anywhere from 14-30 days for autos). This will ensure that you will have a seedless crop.

Identifying and Managing Males

Now for the other 1% who will be keeping the males, you need to decide if you are going to let them open pollinate or isolate them for breeding purposes. If you plan on using the males for breeding, you can either just let them grow au natural, which just means letting them grow alongside your females. The resulting flower will all have seeds. This is probably the less desirable method. Unless your goal is seeds, you will want to utilize the other method below.

For folks that are planning on using the males for future breeding, the best way is to kill the other females in the pot, leaving only the male. Then, separate and isolate it from all other plants in a sealed environment. If you try and put it on the other side of the tent or room, you will end up with full pollination.

Once you have isolated the male, you will want to get some tinfoil and make a pollen catching system. This is really anything that you can use to catch the pollen as it falls. We recommend a large cardboard box that is lined at the bottom with wax paper, parchment paper or tin foil. As the plant matures and drops the pollen you will be able to collect it off the paper or foil. Once a significant amount of pollen has dropped you can remove the plant and take out the liner. This will contain a mix of anthers (male pollen sacs) and pollen. The key to pollen is keeping it very dry, as dry as possible. So if you aren’t using the pollen immediately, keep the collected pollen in the driest place possible. Once pollen gets wet, it is useless. Then, when you want to pollinate a future plant, just take the contents of the liner and put it on the pistils of any plant you would like seeds from. Keep in mind that the seeds that are made from this method will also be REGULAR SEEDS!

Because you will never know the ratio of males to females, it is always best to plant at least 2 per pot. This gives you the best chance to get a female.

Managing Female Plants

Now that we have decided what to do with the males, let’s talk about the females. These are what most people are after – the ladies! A decision needs to be made about what you want to do with the remaining females.

One option is to go all survival of the fittest and simply kill the least vigorous of the remaining females. The second option is to leave all remaining females and treat them as a single unit. We see a lot of people that tend to think that having multiple plants in one container is a bad thing, that somehow these plants roots will “choke” each other out or somehow cause ill effects. We have not seen this to be the case, in fact we have seen lots of great yields over the years seeing multiple plants in one pot. Autos are very hardy, and they have a way of growing very close together in nature. Being that they are a ruderal species, they are extremely adaptable.

Hopefully, this will help you grow any non-feminized seeds that you get from Multiverse.

Thanks to Jolly Hashpants for letting us use your photo for our cover!

Contact Us for Autoflower Seeds Online

If you have any questions or need further guidance on growing autoflower seeds, feel free to reach out to us. Our team of experienced cultivators is here to help you achieve the best results with your grow.

One of the most highly debated topics in all the cannabis industry is, what is the best lighting cycle for my autoflowering cannabis? After almost a decade of exclusively growing autoflowers, we can say a few things on this. In this article, we will discuss the importance of measuring your PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) or PAR (photosynthetic active radiation). This may sound like a scary term, but we assure you they are not scary at all. In fact, they are quite fun!

Understanding PPFD and PAR

Below is a basic guide to where your optimal range for PPFD should be based on where they are in the growth cycle. Now, a lot of folks are asking, what is PPFD, or how do I find out my PPFD? There are several apps for most smartphones that will let you get a reading of what your PPFD is. With a quick google search you can find one that you feel is best for your phone. These may not be super accurate, but it will give you an idea of where you are PPFD-wise. That will be enough for most people to succeed and get some familiarity with PPFD.

Natural Light Cycles for Autos

First, I would like to refer to mother nature here. Ruderalis (also known as autos) that grow in the northernmost parts of our planet have adapted to a very long light cycle during its growing season. Generally, this is going to be more than 18 hours per day of direct light, with a decreasing amount of light for the remainder of the day. The theory is that these plants never get a total dark period in nature. Now, they don’t get full sunlight for those 24 hours, but it never goes completely dark.

We don’t always use nature as a direct example of what to do. For example, it hales in nature, but we don’t want to go and pelt our indoor plants with ice periodically, right? When it comes to lighting and autos, though, we can take a very good clue.

Rest Periods for Autos

As an evolutionary response to a very rapidly changing light cycle, these plants can carry out all their biological processes in low light conditions versus a completely dark period. When this topic comes up, most people say (correctly) that all plants need rest. And this is totally true: the difference with autos is that they can rest and do all the things needed during that rest in low light vs. complete darkness.

Optimal Lighting Cycle

Enough with the sciencey stuff! We here at MVB believe that the optimum lighting cycle is 24 hours of light. 18 of those hours should be full intensity, and the remaining hours should be lower intensity.

Here is an example:

1. 18 hours of 100% intensity
2. 2 hours of 50% intensity
3. 2 hours of 20% intensity
4. 2 hours of 10% intensity

This is just an example; you can give them less or more during the “rest period.” This is where learning specific cultivars becomes beneficial. The main thing to remember when it comes to what lighting cycle is best for your autos is that anything more than 18 hours will be sufficient.

Explore More

These plants have evolved to grow very fast in a short period of time. By maximizing inputs like light, nutrients, temperature, humidity etc. you will maximize the genetic potential of these amazing plants. Autoflowers love to grow. If you give them the right things, they will love you back! As always, make sure to check out all the top autoflower breeders at Multiverse.

Be sure to check us out on social media!
Instagram | Facebook | Reddit | Discord

Want to win free beans? Click the pic below!

There are a lot of terms that get thrown around in the cannabis growing community: DLI, Ph, RH, VPD etc. VPD is one that people see a lot but don’t know what it is or how they can use it to help them grow. VPD is the acronym for Vapor Pressure Deficit. VPD is simply the relationship between the air temperature and relative humidity. Without getting into a botany lesson, the atmosphere inside the plant tissue and the atmosphere outside the plant tissue create a process called osmosis. This is basically how the plants “breathe.” The plants’ leaves are covered with stomata, which are tiny pores in the surface of the leaf. So, keep this information in mind and let’s dive into how to properly calculate your VPD and how to use it to become a better grower.

VPD Calculator

VPD takes two variables, temperature and relative humidity (RH), and puts them into an equation. For the purposes of this article, we will refer you to a VPD calculator. Here is a very simple one that is easy to use: https://www.doctorgreenhouse.com/cannabis-vpd-calculator

This calculator allows you to input your temperature and humidity into the corresponding boxes to calculate your VPD. There is also a chart that goes along with your VPD number. The key to the chart is, keep it in the GREEN! Take your corresponding temperature and humidity, follow each until they intersect and that tells you your VPD (this is if you don’t want to use the VPD calculator) if you already have your VPD from the calculator, find where your number lands on the chart. If it’s in the green, you are good to go!

Understanding VPD

You can think of VPD as a way to increase or decrease the movement of the water inside the plant. A lower VPD will move the water inside the plant slower, and a higher VPD will result in the water moving faster. This is important because when the plant is young, it can’t move water very fast through its vascular system, as it hasn’t developed yet. So, a lower VPD at the younger stages is going to result in optimum growth at that stage. As the plant gets older and larger, it will be able to take a higher VPD.

A general rule of thumb when it comes to VPD is:

Seedling/Early veg 0.4-0.8 is ideal

Veg/Early Flower 0.8-1.1

Flower 1.1-1.3

If VPD is not something you have ever thought to use in your garden, we highly recommend it. We do understand it can be challenging to achieve the perfect environment, but this at least gives us a goal to shoot for. As always, check us out our cannabis seed bank online, and follow us on our Facebook, Reddit, Discord, and Instagram!

What’s up everyone? We are having the largest sale we have ever had plus the LARGEST GIVEAWAY we’ve ever done!

Full details below:

Like many of you reading this, I have worked in the retail and service industry most of my adult life. Instead of being able to stay home and spend the holidays with loved ones, I was always scheduled to work. It sucks, and it’s bullshit. You don’t deserve it, and I didn’t either. That’s why we are having the same sale ’til after New Year’s in the hopes of not contributing to the corporate bullshit tradition that robs you of special memories from your loved ones.

The sale will run Friday (12/23) at noon PST to Monday (01/02) at 9:00 PM PST.

All orders over $125 – $174.99 will receive the following:
2x Frosted Cherry O’s by Speed Run Seeds

2x Caramel Cream Auto By Humboldt Seed Co

2x Face Fat by Atlas Seed Co

* In addition to the normal freebies

All orders over $175-$224.99 will receive the following:
4x Frosted Cherry O’s by Speed Run Seeds

4x Caramel Cream Auto by Humboldt Seed Co

4x Face Fat by Atlas Seed Co

* In addition to the normal freebies

All orders over $225+ will receive the following:
4x Frosted Cherry O’s by Speed Run Seeds

4x Caramel Cream Auto By Humboldt Seed Co

4x Face Fat by Atlas Seed Co
2x Lemon Grass Auto By Humboldt Seed Co

2x Sour Apple Auto By Humboldt Seed Co

2x Sapphyre by Speed Run Seeds

2x Biscauto by Twenty20 Mendocino
5x Slaps:

Hank Hill
Dragon Ball Beanz
Grow Your Own Drugs
Come Back With A Warrant
Wu-Tang

* In addition to the normal freebies

Everyone who spends over $225 will be entered for a

chance to win a prize pack of the following:

1x Wedding Cake Auto
3x Northern Lights Auto
2x Mimosa Cake to Auto
2x Rhino Ryder 2
3x Orange Sherbert 3
3x Gorilla Cookies
3x Blue Bullet
4x Knows Candy
3x Poundtown Auto
3x Sour Apple Auto
3x LSD Auto
1x Blueberry Fem Auto
2x LSD Auto
1x Big devil XL Auto
1x Big devil XL Auto
2x Wicked Witch
3x Tricross
3x Gummy Bears
3x Fog Dog
3x Froot by the Foot
3x Top Gun
3x Grease Gun
1x Strawberry Cheesecake
2x White Russian Auto
1x Big devil X
2x Big devil XL
1x Cinderella 99 Female Photo
2x GMO Auto
2x Critical Kush
3x Emerald Fire OG
2x Gorilla Zkittlez Auto
1x Big Devil XL Auto
1x Big Devil XL Auto
1x Big Devil XL Auto
2x X a n t h a n i t e
2x Fatso Auto
2x The Forge
2x Alien Moon Rocks
2x Fatso Auto
3x Blackstrap
3x Citrus Bubble Gum
3x Sapphire
1x No Mids Dab Mat
1x Wu-Tang OG Multiverse Beans Slap

Breeder % off:

Ace Seeds 20%

Atlas Seeds 20%

Aura Genetix 40%

Barneys Farm 20%

BGreen Genetics 35%

Binary Selections 20%

Blimburn Seeds 30%

Bloom Seed Co 30%

Bodhi/Sproutways 30%

Brothers Grimm 25%

Cali Connection 10%

Cannarado Genetics 20%

Cult Classic 40%

Dark Horse 30%

Dark Owl 20%

DNA 20%

Dutch Passion 25%

Ebb and Flow 20%

Envy Genetics 40%

Error Seeds 20%

Ethos 20%

Exotic Genetics 20%

Fast Buds 20%

Fat Cat Labs 40%

Fire Budz 40%

Gas Reaper 40%

Gnome Automatics 20%

Hollands High 30%

Humboldt Seed Co 20%

Inhouse Genetic s20%

Jinxproof 30%

Kagyu/Sproutways 30%

Magic Strains 20%

Mephisto 20%

Mosca 20%

Mutant Genetics 20%

Night Owl 20%

Organicx Genetics 20%

Pacific NW Roots 35%

Photon Pharms 20%

Pure Breeding 30%

Ripper Seeds 15%

Robin Hood 10%

Roc Bud Inc 20%

Romulan 20%

Ronin Garden 20%

Royal Queen 30%

Seed Stockers 20%

Seedsman 35%

Sensi Seeds 30%

Sin City 20%

Skunk House 40%

Snowhigh/Sproutways 20%

Solfire Garden 20%

Square One 10%

Sweet Seeds 20%

Tastebudz 20%

Terpy Finder 20%

Trident 20%

Twenty20 Mendocino 20%

Twisted Trees Auto Flowers 20%

Viking Gardens 20%

Wicked Pissah 30%

What’s up everyone?

My beloved car finally died. I had it from 2010 until 12/2/22. 188k miles. It was my first car I ever had.

We are having a sale this weekend so I can buy a new one; the used car market is a hot mess.

This is a topic that scares a lot of home growers. This is what we all seek to avoid when it comes to growing cannabis. In this post from Multiverse, we will focus on identifying a true hermie in autoflowering cannabis.

I will start by saying, a true hermaphrodite is rare. There are things that can cause a female plant to go into what is called rodelization. Rodelization takes place when a female plant will try to pollinate herself as a last resort when she doesn’t get pollinated and is nearing the end of her life cycle. That is why sometimes older or stressed female plants grow a few male “balls” as a last-ditch attempt to self-pollinate.

In autoflowers, this process can happen early at the beginning of flowering. It DOES NOT mean that your plant is a hermaphrodite! This is a natural response to some sort of stress trigger, which can be anything from:

• Temperature swings
• Humidity issues
• Watering issues
• Lighting issues, etc.

We have not identified what exactly causes this rodelization response. What we do know is that it is generally not a cause for concern.

Next we will identify how to tell if your plant is has “stress sacs” or is a true hermie.

Stress Sacs

Generally, rodelization stress sacs only occur at the bottom most branches. They usually only occur on the first 1-3 internodes (the place where the lateral branch meets the main stalk). There will almost always be just a few of them in a small cluster that forms at the base of the internode. They almost always are small and easy to spot.

This is an example of a stress sac, as long as it is at the lower most part of the plant.

True Hermies

A true hermaphrodite is going to have both male and female parts forming all the way up the plant. They will form tight male sac clusters where buds should be. They generally will have both male and female parts in the same bud site. This is not always the case, but most of the time. On a true hermie, you will notice a lot more male flowers in the place where pistils (the hairs on female plants) are supposed to be.

This is an example of a true hermie.

If you do in fact have stress sacs vs a true hermie, the easiest way to deal with them is to pluck off the stress sacs that you can see. Then, keep a close eye on the plant, and watch for any further sacs to develop. In most cases, they will only throw out one, MAYBE two sets of sacs at the bottom-most branches. Stress sacs are not super rare and can happen from time to time. True hermies, however, are much more rare, and that is why it is always key to stick with reputable breeders and reputable retailers, like Multiverse Beans!

What’s up everyone? We are having the largest sale we have ever had this holiday week. We will never have a sale this insane again. More below.

Like many of you reading this, I have worked in the retail and service industry most of my adult life. Instead of being able to stay home and spend my thanksgiving with loved ones, I was always scheduled to work. It sucks and its bullshit, you don’t deserve it, and I didn’t either. That’s why we are having the same sale for an entire week. In the hopes of not contributing to the Black Friday tradition that robs you of special memories from your loved ones.

The sale will run Monday(11/21) at noon PST to Monday(11/28) at 11:59 PM PST.

Before we moved to Washington, I had to run my business a particular way. Now that we are here, I can run it in a more effective manner. Because of the old ineffective way, we have a very LARGE SURPLUS of stock on hand. Once it’s gone, we are not going to have a surplus like this again.

All orders over $125 will receive the following:
2x Citrus Bubble Gum Auto by Mutant Genetics

2x Emerald Fire OG Auto by Humboldt Seed Co

2x GMO Auto by Atlas Seed Co

* In addition to the normal freebies

All orders over $175 will receive the following:
4x Citrus Bubble Gum Auto by Mutant Genetics

4x Emerald Fire OG Auto by Humboldt Seed Co

4x GMO Auto by Atlas Seed Co

* In addition to the normal freebies

Breeder Sales:
Ace Seeds 25%

Atlas Seeds 20%

Aura Genetix 40%

Barneys Farm 20%

BGreen Genetics 30%

Binary Selections 20%

Blimburn Seeds 25%

Bodhi/Sproutways 20%

Brothers Grimm 30%

Cali Connection 15%

Cannarado Genetics 20%

Cult Classic 40%

Dark Horse 35%

Dark Owl 20%

DNA 20%

Dutch Passion 25%

Ebb and Flow 30%

Envy Genetics 40%

Error Seeds 20%

Ethos 25%

Exotic Genetics 25%

Fast Buds 25%

Fat Cat Labs 35%

Gas Reaper 40%

Gnome Automatics 20%

Hollands High 30%

Humboldt Seed Co 20%

Humboldt Seed Co 10 packs 30%

Jinxproof 30%

Kagyu/Sproutways 20%

Magic Strains 20%

Mephisto 35%

Mutant Genetics 25%

Night Owl 20%

Organicx Genetics 20%

Pacific NW Roots 30%

Ripper Seeds 20%

Robin Hood 15%

Roc Bud Inc 15%

Ronin Garden 20%

Royal Queen 20%

Seed Stockers 25%

Seedsman 35%

Sensi Seeds 20%

Snowhigh/Sproutways 20%

Solfire Garden 25%

Square One 15%

Sweet Seeds 30%

Tastebudz 20%

Trident 20%

Twenty20 Mendocino 30%

Twisted Trees Auto Flowers 20%

Viking Gardens 20%

Wicked Pissah 30%

Inhouse Genetics 20%

Skunk House 30%

Bloom Seed Co 30%

Terpy Finder 30%

Sin City 30%

Photo Pharms 25%

Romulan 20%

Thank you to the veterans and everyone affected by their sacrifice.

To honor those that serve, we are having a small sale and giving away a 2 pack of Lemon Grass Auto by HSC. It is a veteran’s favorite.

Select breeders up to 40% off!

*This article contains links from Amazon – we are not affiliated and do not receive compensation if you purchase. These links are just our suggestions for products to use.

Optimal Environment for Germinating Autoflower Seeds

When it comes to germinating autoflower seeds, it is important to keep in mind the optimum environment in which seedlings will germinate and thrive. This is going to be a temperature range of 78-85 Fahrenheit and a relative humidity (RH) range of 85-95%. We recommend using a seedling germination kit that has a dome, along with root cubes (brand doesn’t really matter). This is a proven method that will result in almost any seed that is viable coming to life.

Preparing the Root Plugs

Take your root plugs and insert them into the root plug tray. At this point, you want to insert your seed into the pre-drilled hole in the root plug.

CAUTION – DON’T PUT IT TOO DEEP! This is a common issue we see. Burying the seed deep in the middle of the root plug is not the correct way. What happens when the seed is buried too deeply is the tap root can grow in the wrong direction. This mistake can result in all kinds of weird things, such as your seedling trying to come out the bottom or the side of the cube. You want to place the seed no more than 1⁄4 of an inch into the root plug. Basically, just enough to make sure that the seed can absorb moisture from all around. You want the entire seed covered by the root plug and that’s it.

Maintaining the Right Temperature and Humidity

Make sure that your incubator kit is in a warm place – not hot and definitely not cold or even cool. Temperatures are one of the most important things to think about when it comes to germination. To achieve this warmth, some people will use a heat mat. Now that your seed is into the root cube, simply place the clear plastic dome on top of the root plug holder and reservoir trays. This will create a very humid environment, which is the optimum for autoflower seeds. The vents on the plastic dome will allow you to control the ambient relative humidity inside the incubator. In most cases, having them all shut will keep the inside at the perfect RH.

Setting Up the Light

Now you want to hook up your light! For most situations, simply put a T5 light fixture on top of the plastic dome. Again, these lights are not very powerful, but they don’t need to be. The primary reason to have a light source is to minimize “stretching” early on. Having almost any source of light will achieve this. So don’t get too bogged down in searching for a special seedling light.

Next is the part that MANY people have trouble with: LEAVE IT ALONE. Do not pull the plugs out to check on the seeds no matter how curious you are. They are doing their thing; don’t stress! Don’t mess with the mat, the dome, or the plugs. Just leave it alone for 72 hours, and 95% of the time you will have seedlings ready to transplant.

Transplanting Seedlings

Once your seedlings start to emerge, you will notice what we call a “goose neck” starting to push its way through the pre-drilled opening. This is the part of the root crown that attaches plant to root system. It is at this point that we recommend transplanting into their “forever home.”

Because of the delicate nature of the tap root and root cap, transplanting at this point will help ensure the stability of the root system. One of the major things that we have found in achieving the best results with autos is proper care of the root system at the beginning stages of growth. By transplanting when the “goose neck” is starting to show, the tap root in most cases is still inside the root plug. This will significantly minimize root damage risk. Generally speaking, if these steps are followed, you will have a seedling in 72 hours or less. Some cultivars will take less time, some can take a little more. With this method of germination, we have achieved a 98% success rate in germinating our autoflower seeds.

Big thanks to @804grower for letting us use your seedling photo!

It’s that time of year again! CROPtober is upon us! So, let’s get into how to tell if your cannabis is ready to harvest. When it comes to harvesting your cannabis, there are a few things that people have used for a long time to assess the “ripeness” or maturity. In our opinion here at Multiverse Beans, these are not the end all be all when it comes to harvesting your cannabis at the right time.

Traditional Indicators of Maturity

For as long as harvesting has been around, people have used the color of the trichome as the sole indicator of maturity for the cannabis plant. Traditionally, it has been thought that the trichome goes through three stages of development:

• Clear Trichome Head – This is a fully bulbous head that has not begun to become opaque, here is a picture of a clear trichome head. You will notice that the head is still totally translucent, and hasn’t started to turn “milky” or opaque
• “Milky” or Opaque Trichome Head – This trichome head has started to go from completely clear to a more opaque or “milky” Notice how these trichomes are starting to go milky towards the bottom, but still remain clear at the top. This is a good example of the transition from clear to milky.
• Amber Trichome Head – This is the final stage of trichome development, and it is thought that this is when it is fully mature

In our opinion, trichome color alone is NOT the best way to tell if your cannabis plant is ready to harvest. We recommend a more in depth and overall plant assessment. This is especially true for autoflowers, there are some strains that will never fully turn amber. Some will, some won’t. It’s still kind of a mystery as to what specifically changes the color of a trichome.

Determining Ripeness at Multiverse Beans

Below is the way we determine ripeness here in the multiverse:

• First: Bract size. Are the bracts fully formed and swollen? This is something that we always look for first, are the calyxes fully formed and all the way swollen. One way to determine this is by feeling the bud. Give it a gentle squeeze and see how much firmness the bud has. If it still feels “airy” or light in any way, that means it still has some swelling to do.
• Next: Pistil recession. Are 90% or more of the hairs recessed and orange? This is a sign that the plant has given up on reproducing for the most part and understands it’s going to die. Once the hairs have gone brownish or orange, that is when you really can start to think about chopping.
• Next: Leaf fade. This is when the plant is consuming its nutrient reserves in a last ditch effort to stay alive. This process is the same thing that happens when the leaves change on the trees in the mountains. When the leaves start to lose their green chlorophyll, it can turn all kinds of beautiful colors. This is another reason to make sure to let your cannabis get fully mature. The leaf color fade is always such a beautiful thing to see.
• Lastly: Look at the trichomes, but not in the way most people think. Instead of focusing solely on the color, we always recommend looking at the structure of the trichome and how the head is attached to the stalk.

Using a Microscope

Now you will need a microscope of some kind (even the cheap ones will work). You can find these on Amazon. Just search for a handheld microscope or a microscope lens for your phone or camera.

Conclusion: A Holistic Approach

While color can be a factor, newer research shows that light and other outside influences can affect the color as well as maturity. That’s why it’s not the best indicator of maturity.

Look at the trichs and see if the head has started to separate from the stalk. Once this has happened in 80% or more of the trichomes, you are ready for harvest!

Learning the Process

As with most things when it comes to growing cannabis, this process takes time to learn and is an acquired and learned skill. Very rarely in cannabis cultivation do we find a “one size fits all” method of doing anything. We are constantly evolving in what we know about this plant, and as science improves and access evolves. We will learn exactly what causes the change in color of trichomes, along with many other things. We believe this is a more complete way of answering the question, “is my plant ready to harvest?” Using the entire plant as a way to tell you when she is ready to harvest, will allow you to get more familiar with how the cannabis life cycle works.

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If you need help determining the right time to harvest your cannabis, contact Multiverse Beans. Our team of cannabis seed experts is here to help you achieve the best buds possible.